Les Remparts is a restaurant in the hotel of the same name in Montreuil sur Mer near the coast in the North East of France.
Service and Decor at Les Remparts
The place is well appointed and seems larger than it is. Wine list is short but well thought out, but I felt the fresh bread and butter normally offered in abundance in French hostelries was being rationed. We opted to have the €35 a head Menu des Saveurs (broadly translates as “flavour menu”) which was a 4 course affair including cheese. The problem here is that they insisted the dessert was ordered at the time of the starter and main; to me this is almost an unforgivable transgression. Yes, the kitchen may want to plan things a little better (basically their reasoning), but how do I know whether I want something light or richer before I’ve eaten 3 other courses? That aside, a delicious frog’s leg risotto ball was the amuse bouche that started proceedings.
Food at Les Remparts
I opted for the foie gras, something I really only eat in France. It was a good enough example, served with a fruit infused butter which went well. The only real criticism here is that it was a little cold, but with modern day food safety laws, it’s hard for hostelries to nail it. Friend had a trio of snails, a delightful concoction featuring a pair in the classic butter, a kind of snail ras-el-hanout and snails in a lightly herbed broth. This was incredibly well thought out and equally well executed; almost worth the visit in itself.
Main for me was a skewer of prawns with a taboulé niçois ; again, well executed and attention to detail in the prawns being served partially shelled. Friend had the duck breast which was cooked perfectly with an excellent cherry reduction and amazing fondant potatoes. I opted to have cheese (friend omitted this course) which was a good selection of local produce. We both finished with a trio of creme brulee, one infused with green tea, one vanilla and the last one I think a local firewater of some description). The custard was excellent, but, controversially, it was served in thin and tall dishes, which means the caramel crisp to custard ratio may not be to everyone’s liking – personally, I think it allowed the favourings to come through and not be masked by a mouthful of sugar.
Other that the pudding ordering issue (which is a basic one that has no place in any establishment, let alone one that aspires to the level of gastronomy at Les Ramparts), it was an excellent example of fine French cuisine in a relaxed and informal setting. When you consider the price, it is even more excellent.
|Restaurant Name||Les Ramparts|
|Price Range||£50 a head inc set menu with a decent amount of wine|
|Address||5 Porte de France, 62170 Montreuil, France|