There’s a pre-theatre menu at the Savoy Grill; one of Gordon Ramsay’s Michelin starred affairs in the Savoy Hotel, London. £26 for 3 courses is a reasonable price regardless of the pedigree in London these days to be fair (though at £13 via TopTable for 2 courses with a glass of fizz and steak on the menu, PJ’s Bar and Grill in Covent Garden may win).

Anyway, the Grill restaurant is tucked on a corner in the hotel; welcome is efficient and precise, as are the tables and service – all the Ramsay hallmarks I have previously mentioned.

Warm home cooked bread arrives with room temperature butter (it’s the little things!) and a very good wine list – a broad range of decent bottles at reasonable prices; I opted for a Loire Valley red (Bourgeuil Cuvée ‘Bonne Heure’) which was excellent at £31 a bottle.

We both chose the chicken liver and foie gras parfait and toasted sourdough bread as a starter; this was excellent. My main was the breaded pork cutlet with a lemon and caper sauce; it was so nice to see this dish done with a thick cut and not hammered into wafer thin schnitzel; but I felt they could’ve trimmed the fat a little better – it’s great when not breaded as it can form crackling but when breaded it is a little strange to be there.

My friend had sea bream – I didn’t get much of a look in, but apparently the accompanying lentils were just on the verge of being the wrong side of al dente.

Both of those I am chalking up as minor technical errors, but to be fair, both are in the shades of grey between that and personal preference; it would just be easier to give the benefit of the doubt if you weren’t expecting technical perfection from Ramsay.

Puddings turned things around though; a very competent and light plum tart for me and an epic Eton mess for my friend; this was almost worth the whole bill in itself.

Atmospherically, I found the lighting a little low and a little awkward for me, the service was great but the tables are arranged around service “thoroughfares” which makes it feel a little frantic.

All in all, the other Ramsay one-star I’ve been to recently (for a commensurately priced offer), Maze, walks all over the Savoy Grill; but as pre-theatre menus go, actually, you’d be hard pressed to find a better value experience in the round than here.

 

Savoy Grill
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